What to wear over a dress at a wedding

The dress is chosen; the question is what goes over it. A coat hides it, a pashmina slips, a jacket changes the line. A silk velvet poncho or an embroidered cape keeps the dress in view, keeps you warm from the church door to the last dance, and comes off in one movement. This is how we would choose, by occasion.

A winter wedding, or an evening one

From October to February a wedding guest spends the day moving between cold air and warm rooms. Choose a piece that works indoors, so it never has to be checked in. A poncho in the longer cut, 95 cm from the back of the neck to the hem, covers the arms and falls past the hip over a midi or a long dress: the Gypset in black and emerald, or the Glory of the Snow in dark blue and silver grey, both silk velvet lined in 100% mulberry silk. For a dress in a strong colour, choose a poncho that repeats one of its tones rather than a new one. Nothing in black and white, which belongs to the wedding party.

Black tie and galas

Black tie asks for a long line. A floor-length cape over a column gown reads as one silhouette: the hooded Mystery Cape, black silk velvet, 161 cm from the neck, with gunmetal embroidery at the hood and front, or the Royal Garden Cape, magenta silk velvet buttoned from neck to waist and covered in 240 hours of leaf-shaped green sequins. If you would rather keep the gown visible, a knee-length cape does it: the Silver Feather Cape in petrol with silver beads and feathers, or the Rainbow Cape in purple with rainbow sequins, both 118 cm from the neck. See all the couture capes.

The opera, the theatre and dinner

Here the piece stays on through the evening, so it should be light on the shoulders and easy to sit in. The shorter poncho, 65 cm, sits at the hip and clears the seat: the Gatsby in purple with champagne silk, the Black Rose in black and dark red, or the Golden Age, black velvet with a gold fringe. For a dinner on a warm evening, the Nomad in black mulberry silk, embroidered in gold at the border, weighs almost nothing. See all the silk ponchos.

Over a column dress, or with bare shoulders

A column dress wants a straight fall over it: a cape, or the longer poncho worn closed. A strapless or halter dress wants the shoulders left to the piece; a poncho worn open, or pushed back off one shoulder, does this without a seam or a sleeve to fight the neckline. With long sleeves, the shorter poncho sits over the sleeve and the fringe moves with the arm. A high neck under a cape works when the cape fastens at the neck, as all of ours do; a low neck under a poncho works when the poncho is open at the front. More in how to wear a poncho with an evening dress.

Poncho, cape or shawl?

A shawl is held, so one hand is always busy. A cape fastens at the neck and hangs from the shoulders; it is the formal choice, and the warmer one. A poncho falls over the head and shoulders and needs no hand, no fastening and no thought once it is on; it is the one to dance in. All three can be silk velvet; only the poncho and the cape stay where you put them. The difference, in full.

Practical notes

Every poncho is one size and usually fits XS to XL; every cape fits S to L and can be adjusted. UK delivery is complimentary and takes 3 to 4 working days; Europe, the United States and elsewhere are served by DHL. A cape not in stock is made for you in 6 to 8 weeks, so for a date in the diary, order early or enquire about an appointment. Silk velvet is dry clean only; creases lift with steam from the inside. How to care for silk velvet.